The
Basics Of Composting
What Is Compost?
Compost is simply decomposed organic material. The organic material can be plant material or animal matter. While composting may seem mysterious or complicated, it’s really a very simple and natural process that continuously occurs in nature, often without any assistance from mankind. If you’ve ever walked in the woods, you’ve experienced compost in its most natural setting. Both living plants and annual plants that die at the end of the season are consumed by animals of all sizes, from larger mammals, birds, and rodents to worms, insects, and microscopic organisms. The result of this natural cycle is compost, a combination of digested and undigested food that is left on the forest floor to create rich, usually soft, sweet-smelling soil.
Backyard composting is the intentional and managed decomposition of organic materials for the production of compost, that magical soil enhancer that is fundamental to good gardening. Anyone can effectively manage the composting process. In fact, if you have organic matter, it’s virtually impossible to prevent decomposition. The trick is to maximize the process of decomposition, while avoiding the unpleasant effects of the natural process of decaying matter. Compost is good; sloppy garbage heaps and rotting food are bad.
Why Is Compost So Good?
Compost is good for two very compelling reasons. It’s great for the garden, and it’s environmentally responsible.
Garden Benefits
Compost is great for the garden because it improves the soil, which in turn supports healthier and more productive plants. Compost provides virtually all of the essential nutrients for healthy plant growth, and it almost always releases those nutrients over time to give plants a slow, steady, consistent intake of the elements essential for growth. Compost also improves the soil’s structure, making it easier for soil to hold and use the right amount of moisture and air. Compost will improve the texture of both clay and sandy soil; indeed, compost is the best additive to make either clay or sandy soil into rich, moisture holding, loamy soil. And, as an added benefit, compost improves plant vigor and provides for improved immunology from diseases.
Environmental Benefits
The most obvious environmental benefit is that composting can significantly reduce the amount of solid waste that would otherwise find its way into the trash collection and dumping cycle. Clearly, the more we compost, the less we contribute to the cost of trash removal and the volume of solid materials in landfills. Using compost to feed your lawn and garden will also reduce your dependency on chemical fertilizers. So, you’ll save money and reduce – if not eliminate - the potential of chemical pollution to your little piece of the environment. Using compost instead of chemical fertilizers will ensure that your lawn and garden thrive in soil that is alive and healthy.
The most obvious environmental benefit is that composting can significantly reduce the amount of solid waste that would otherwise find its way into the trash collection and dumping cycle. Clearly, the more we compost, the less we contribute to the cost of trash removal and the volume of solid materials in landfills. Using compost to feed your lawn and garden will also reduce your dependency on chemical fertilizers. So, you’ll save money and reduce – if not eliminate - the potential of chemical pollution to your little piece of the environment. Using compost instead of chemical fertilizers will ensure that your lawn and garden thrive in soil that is alive and healthy.
What’s The Best Way to Make Compost?
To make compost, you’ll need to dedicate some outdoor space to the process. Ideally, the location of your compost production should be convenient to the garden, as well as close to the source of the raw materials (kitchen scraps, lawn clippings, etc.), without being an unappealing eyesore. Finding a good spot for your compost pile might be a little bit easier if you have a lot of land; but, even suburbanites and city dwellers can effectively maintain a compost pile with a little bit of creativity and effort. And, the benefits – both to the garden and the environment – far exceed the effort!
To make compost, you’ll need to dedicate some outdoor space to the process. Ideally, the location of your compost production should be convenient to the garden, as well as close to the source of the raw materials (kitchen scraps, lawn clippings, etc.), without being an unappealing eyesore. Finding a good spot for your compost pile might be a little bit easier if you have a lot of land; but, even suburbanites and city dwellers can effectively maintain a compost pile with a little bit of creativity and effort. And, the benefits – both to the garden and the environment – far exceed the effort!
Open Bins or Containers
There are two basic kinds of compost piles: open bins and enclosed containers.
Open bins can be constructed with wood, chicken wire, or recycled plastic. Of course, municipal large scale composting is often conducted in large open piles without the use of any bins at all. These compost heaps are often turned by bulldozers or other pieces of heavy equipment, so container walls are not practical.
Enclosed containers for composting usually consist of one of two designs: upright box-like containers, and rotating drums.
There are two basic kinds of compost piles: open bins and enclosed containers.
Open bins can be constructed with wood, chicken wire, or recycled plastic. Of course, municipal large scale composting is often conducted in large open piles without the use of any bins at all. These compost heaps are often turned by bulldozers or other pieces of heavy equipment, so container walls are not practical.
Enclosed containers for composting usually consist of one of two designs: upright box-like containers, and rotating drums.
Advantages of Open Bin Composting
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Open bins easily collect rain water
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Open bins are very convenient for adding materials
Disadvantages of Open Bin Composting
·
Open bins can attract rodents, flies, bees, and bears
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Open bins can become too wet, if not covered
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Open bins may be more difficult to mix (more on that
later)
·
Open bins may be an eyesore to your neighbors
Advantages of Compost Containers
·
Compost containers will rarely attract pests
·
Upright containers may be more aesthetically appealing
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Rotating drums are usually easier to mix or turn
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Rotating drums are easy to unload
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Rotating drums usually have “screening” options
Disadvantages of Compost Containers
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Enclosed containers usually require you to add water
·
Upright containers may be very difficult to mix or turn
Two Chambers are Always Better than One
Whether you choose to use an open bin or a compost container, two chambers are always better than one. In fact, if you are really serious about composting, having two chambers is a necessity. Because the composting process takes at least several weeks under the best conditions, you cannot add additional materials to the heap without “resetting the clock” to day. To create an ideal batch of fully composted material, your mix needs to “cook” for at least several weeks; if you add additional material, you’ll have a mix of fully decomposed material, partially decomposed material, and fresh materials. It’s simply much easier, and much more desirable to use a consistent mixture of fully decomposed compost for gardening purposes. After all, you wouldn’t want to buy a bag of potting soil that contained a rotting tomato in it!
Key Ingredients for Great Compost
One of the great aspects of composting is that the key ingredients are often things that you’d be tempted to throw away. So, with just a little effort, you can contribute less to the trash stream (good for the environment) and make great compost (good for your garden).
Compost is created when you provide the right mixture of key ingredients for the millions of microorganisms that do the dirty work. These microorganisms will eat, multiply, and convert raw materials to compost as long as the environment is right. The environment doesn’t have to be absolutely “perfect,” so you don’t need to be a microbiologist or chemist to have successful compost. You need to provide: food, water, and air.
The water and air are easy. The food is a little more complex. Food for your little micro friends consists of two classes of materials, simply referred to as “Greens” and “Browns.” Green materials are high in nitrogen, while brown materials are high in carbon. The green materials provide protein for the micro bugs, while the brown materials provide energy.
One of the great aspects of composting is that the key ingredients are often things that you’d be tempted to throw away. So, with just a little effort, you can contribute less to the trash stream (good for the environment) and make great compost (good for your garden).
Compost is created when you provide the right mixture of key ingredients for the millions of microorganisms that do the dirty work. These microorganisms will eat, multiply, and convert raw materials to compost as long as the environment is right. The environment doesn’t have to be absolutely “perfect,” so you don’t need to be a microbiologist or chemist to have successful compost. You need to provide: food, water, and air.
The water and air are easy. The food is a little more complex. Food for your little micro friends consists of two classes of materials, simply referred to as “Greens” and “Browns.” Green materials are high in nitrogen, while brown materials are high in carbon. The green materials provide protein for the micro bugs, while the brown materials provide energy.
Typical green materials are:
- Fresh (green) Grass clippings
- Fresh manure (horse, chicken, rabbit, cow)
- Kitchen scraps (fruit, vegetables, coffee grounds,
tea bags)
- Weeds
- Green leaves
- Leftover fruits from the garden
Typical brown materials include:
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Brown, dry leaves
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Dried grass
·
Cornstalks (shredded)
·
Straw
·
Sawdust
Just like us, the little microorganisms need a balanced diet, along with water and air. Too much, or too little of any ingredient significantly reduces their productivity. It is hard to have too much of the brown category. As noted earlier, leaves in the forest decompose without significant quantities of “green” components (although animal droppings do contribute to the green part of the mix) – but, the decomposition takes a little longer.
Too much green is usually the problem. A pile of kitchen garbage will never become useful compost; it simply becomes a smelly pile of garbage. Landfills are not composting sites. Most municipal composting operations begin with the huge quantities of dry leaves that are collected each fall.
A good mix of browns and greens also helps the pile maintain the right amount of moisture and air. A pile that is 100% grass clippings, for example, will quickly become a matted, soggy mess, with too much moisture and too little air. It will decompose, quickly at first, but then stall. Mix in some dry leaves, and you’ll have a significantly more efficient mixture. The dry leave help maintain air pockets within the pile and also provide a more balanced diet for the bacteria and fungi that cause the decomposition.
The Ideal Combination of Browns and Greens
The best combination of browns and greens is about 4 parts of “browns” to one part “greens” by volume. Of course, this is a rough approximation. If you have more browns, you’ll still get compost. it’ll just take a little longer. If you are on the side of too much green, you’ll likely have a smelly garbage heap.
The best source of brown material is dry leaves. In many parts of the country, the annual fall clean-up of leaves from deciduous trees is seen as a necessary chore. I choose to see it as the harvest for next year’s compost pile! Harvesting, shredding, and storing dry leaves is the best thing you can do to create great compost. Use a leaf vacuum or a lawn mower to shred the leaves, and collect them when they’re dry, if at all possible. I like to store my stash of dry leaves in large plastic bags that I can hide under my deck or porch until I need them to keep the greens in my compost bin balanced.
The best combination of browns and greens is about 4 parts of “browns” to one part “greens” by volume. Of course, this is a rough approximation. If you have more browns, you’ll still get compost. it’ll just take a little longer. If you are on the side of too much green, you’ll likely have a smelly garbage heap.
The best source of brown material is dry leaves. In many parts of the country, the annual fall clean-up of leaves from deciduous trees is seen as a necessary chore. I choose to see it as the harvest for next year’s compost pile! Harvesting, shredding, and storing dry leaves is the best thing you can do to create great compost. Use a leaf vacuum or a lawn mower to shred the leaves, and collect them when they’re dry, if at all possible. I like to store my stash of dry leaves in large plastic bags that I can hide under my deck or porch until I need them to keep the greens in my compost bin balanced.
"Hot" vs. "Cold" Composting
As noted earlier, decomposition occurs naturally, and, except for extreme conditions, it’s virtually impossible to stop it. But, decomposition doesn’t necessarily occur efficiently.
When we provide the micro bugs with a good mixture of browns and greens, as well as some water and air, decomposition can be very efficient. This is known as “hot” composting, sometimes call “aerobic” composting, because the microbes that require air have sufficient air to live, eat, and reproduce quickly. The compost pile can attain temperatures as high as 160 degrees Fahrenheit, which will kill some weed seeds, make most of the microbes very active, but will deter worms and some other critters. As the pile cools, the worms will return to assist in the decomposition. Hot composting is fast, and a well maintained compost heap can fully decompose in several weeks. While some ads claim that you can make compost in 14 days, I’ve never experienced that phenomenon in over 25 years of careful composting.
"Cold" composting is slower, primarily because the environment is hospitable to some of the micro bugs, but it’s hardly ideal. This is the form of composting that almost always occurs in the forest, where the mix is often comprised of dry leaves and dead wood. It will decompose over time, but the temperature never gets very high, and the process can take years.
Our goal is to create a composting environment that is "hot". At least during the late spring, summer, and early fall.
As noted earlier, decomposition occurs naturally, and, except for extreme conditions, it’s virtually impossible to stop it. But, decomposition doesn’t necessarily occur efficiently.
When we provide the micro bugs with a good mixture of browns and greens, as well as some water and air, decomposition can be very efficient. This is known as “hot” composting, sometimes call “aerobic” composting, because the microbes that require air have sufficient air to live, eat, and reproduce quickly. The compost pile can attain temperatures as high as 160 degrees Fahrenheit, which will kill some weed seeds, make most of the microbes very active, but will deter worms and some other critters. As the pile cools, the worms will return to assist in the decomposition. Hot composting is fast, and a well maintained compost heap can fully decompose in several weeks. While some ads claim that you can make compost in 14 days, I’ve never experienced that phenomenon in over 25 years of careful composting.
"Cold" composting is slower, primarily because the environment is hospitable to some of the micro bugs, but it’s hardly ideal. This is the form of composting that almost always occurs in the forest, where the mix is often comprised of dry leaves and dead wood. It will decompose over time, but the temperature never gets very high, and the process can take years.
Our goal is to create a composting environment that is "hot". At least during the late spring, summer, and early fall.
Getting Started – Activators, Worms, Microorganisms
You’ve built or bought a composter. You have some dry leaves and you’ll be adding green materials (lawn clippings, kitchen waste, plant scraps) all summer. To some extent, you’ll be layering these materials to provide both a balanced diet and the best mix for air and water penetration.
How can you be sure that the composting will start?
Do you need to buy a “compost activator” or a batch of worms?
What if there aren’t any microorganisms in the mix?
No. No. and, Don’t Worry.
The microorganism essential to composting are plentiful in nature. (That’s why mom always told us to wash our hands after playing outside!) If you’re starting with leaves and other natural materials, you’ve got bacteria and fungi that are eager to help you make compost. And, if you want to give the mix a little boost, one excellent and free additive is simply a shovel full of good garden soil. Assuming that it hasn’t been polluted with nasty chemicals, the soil is full of microbes that are eager to devour the goodies in your compost pile.
Compost activators won’t hurt, but they may not help enough to justify the cost. Mike McGrath, former editor of Organic Gardening magazine and host of the radio show “You Bet Your Garden,” says that compost activators can be more helpful when the compost heap is almost finished, vs. using them at the beginning of the cycle.
Worms can significantly improve your composting effectiveness, just as worms in the garden can improve soil tilth. My open bin compost piles have a healthy supply of worms, probably because I occasionally add a shovel full of good garden soil to my bins.
Worm composting, or Vermicomposting, is a separate form of composting, which is discussed later in this article.
Size Matters – Smaller is Better
While it’s nice to have a larger pile, to develop a good heat core, and to produce a nice quantity of compost, the raw materials should be shredded whenever possible. Smaller particles are simply easier to mix and easier for the little microbes to digest. Of course, the micro bugs don’t eat the whole particle, but smaller particles of raw materials means that you’ll have more surface area for the millions of microbes to do their work.
So, in summary, you should aim for "big heap, small particles."
Worm Composting (Vermicomposting)
Worm composting is the process of using worms in a container to digest kitchen vegetable scraps. The worms (red wigglers) eat the kitchen scraps and cast off their waste to produce a very rich fertilizer. Most worm composting is done indoors, usually in one’s basement. You’ll need to build or buy a worm composting “farm” if you want to dispose of your kitchen scraps by vermicomposting. You can buy a very effective worm composter and red worms from us.
You’ve built or bought a composter. You have some dry leaves and you’ll be adding green materials (lawn clippings, kitchen waste, plant scraps) all summer. To some extent, you’ll be layering these materials to provide both a balanced diet and the best mix for air and water penetration.
How can you be sure that the composting will start?
Do you need to buy a “compost activator” or a batch of worms?
What if there aren’t any microorganisms in the mix?
No. No. and, Don’t Worry.
The microorganism essential to composting are plentiful in nature. (That’s why mom always told us to wash our hands after playing outside!) If you’re starting with leaves and other natural materials, you’ve got bacteria and fungi that are eager to help you make compost. And, if you want to give the mix a little boost, one excellent and free additive is simply a shovel full of good garden soil. Assuming that it hasn’t been polluted with nasty chemicals, the soil is full of microbes that are eager to devour the goodies in your compost pile.
Compost activators won’t hurt, but they may not help enough to justify the cost. Mike McGrath, former editor of Organic Gardening magazine and host of the radio show “You Bet Your Garden,” says that compost activators can be more helpful when the compost heap is almost finished, vs. using them at the beginning of the cycle.
Worms can significantly improve your composting effectiveness, just as worms in the garden can improve soil tilth. My open bin compost piles have a healthy supply of worms, probably because I occasionally add a shovel full of good garden soil to my bins.
Worm composting, or Vermicomposting, is a separate form of composting, which is discussed later in this article.
Size Matters – Smaller is Better
While it’s nice to have a larger pile, to develop a good heat core, and to produce a nice quantity of compost, the raw materials should be shredded whenever possible. Smaller particles are simply easier to mix and easier for the little microbes to digest. Of course, the micro bugs don’t eat the whole particle, but smaller particles of raw materials means that you’ll have more surface area for the millions of microbes to do their work.
So, in summary, you should aim for "big heap, small particles."
Worm Composting (Vermicomposting)
Worm composting is the process of using worms in a container to digest kitchen vegetable scraps. The worms (red wigglers) eat the kitchen scraps and cast off their waste to produce a very rich fertilizer. Most worm composting is done indoors, usually in one’s basement. You’ll need to build or buy a worm composting “farm” if you want to dispose of your kitchen scraps by vermicomposting. You can buy a very effective worm composter and red worms from us.
What NOT to Do
Don’t add these ingredients to your compost pile:
Don’t add these ingredients to your compost pile:
Meat, Fish, animal fats – Unless you can completely bury them, you run the
risk of attracting unwanted visitors to your compost. You might be able to add
very small portions (remember the Native Americans used fish to fertilize their
corn), but they must be completely buried, and adding them makes turning or
mixing the working compost very problematic.
Shredded Newspapers or Office Paper – Recycle them instead. The paper
very likely contains chemicals that are not good for your compost. Newspaper
shredders were very popular years ago, but the risk of adding ink chemicals
isn’t worth it. By all means, recycle your paper and save trees, but don’t put
them in your compost pile.
Ashes from Your BBQ Grill – Another no-no. Wood ashes can be very useful in
small quantities. And, wood ashes can be helpful for certain lawn applications.
But, never put BBQ grill ashes into your compost pile.
Dog and Cat Feces – Are never good for your compost. There’s simply
too much risk of adding nasty diseases, not to mention the unpleasant odor!
Chicken, horse, cow, and rabbit manure is fine…in moderation. If you have
access to these very high nitrogen sources, compost them. They’re too “hot” for
most direct applications to the garden. But, remember your brown to green ratio
of 4-to-1. And, chicken manure is green, in composting terms… even though it’s
brown in appearance.
Be Careful When Adding These Ingredients!
Sawdust – Because of it's very high carbon content, and its
very small particle size, sawdust can overwhelm a compost pile. But, it can
also be quite useful if you have an overload of green material. I add some from
my woodworking shop when I have a lot of extra fruit in my pile at the end of
the season. Avoid using sawdust that came from Black Walnut wood, as it
contains a chemical that will stunt or prevent the growth of some plants,
tomatoes in particular.
Wood Shavings, Chips, and Bark – Like sawdust, the carbon content can overwhelm,
and shut down, an otherwise good compost mix. Set them aside, if possible, and
let them decompose the old fashioned way, over time ("cold"
decomposition).
When and How to Use Compost
Soil Building – Compost is the single best additive for good,
even great, garden soil. It improves tilth, fertility, water retention for
sandy soils, water drainage for clay soils, and improves your soil’s disease
fighting characteristics. Add compost in spring and fall, and till it in.
Garden Fertilizer – Compost can be used throughout the season as a
garden fertilizer. Simply side dress vegetables and flowers for a slow-release
food source and improved disease prevention.
Lawn Feeding – Screened compost (compost that has been sifted to
collect the smaller particles) can be applied as a lawn fertilizer throughout
the season. It will provide a wonderful slow-release food as well as assist in
lawn disease prevention. And, given that the nutrients aren’t as concentrated
as in chemical lawn foods, you’ll avoid the stripes that can easily occur when
incorrectly applying chemicals. You’ll avoid chemical run-off, and you’ll save
money. Your lawn will be alive, with earthworms (natures aerators) and
beneficial microbes.
Compost vs. Mulch – Mulch is any material that is applied to the
garden’s surface to prevent weed germination and to reduce water evaporation.
Compost will help build the soil, and it will help retain moisture; but, it
won’t do a lot to prevent weeds. It’s an ideal growing medium; so, weeds are likely
to be very comfortable in it. Use shredded leaves for mulch, or a combination
of shredded leaves and lawn clippings. The combination of lawn clipping and
shredded leaves creates an attractive mulch that won’t blow away (as leaves
alone tend to do) and allows water penetration (as grass clippings alone tend
to matt and repel water).
Potting Mix (seed starting, potted plants) – Compost
can be used to create a very good seed starting mix, or it can be added to
potting soil to create a nutrient-rich mixture. Most commercial potting mix is
made from Canadian peat moss, which is virtually void of nutrients, so the
addition of good compost provides a real boost. "hot" compost, which
has been produced at higher temperatures, is less likely to contain a lot of
weed seeds. However, some of the fungi in compost may contribute to “damping
off” of seedlings when compost is used for seed starting. To be safe, you
should consider “sterilizing” the compost before using it as a potting mix. You
can sterilize compost by microwaving it, baking it in an oven, or pouring
boiling water over it. Of the three methods, the boiling water treatment is the
neatest and cleanest. Simply put the compost in a large flower pot and soak it
with boiling water from a teapot or saucepan.
How to know compost is ready to use?
The point at which the compost is ready varies depending on how the compost will be used. In general, though, compost is ready when it's dark and crumbly and mostly broken down with a pleasant, earthy, soil-like smell to it.
The point at which the compost is ready varies depending on how the compost will be used. In general, though, compost is ready when it's dark and crumbly and mostly broken down with a pleasant, earthy, soil-like smell to it.
Unfinished Compost
For most uses it is acceptable to have some recognizable pieces of leaves or straw remaining in your compost. However, you should not use partly finished compost either as a seed starter mix or in areas where heavy nitrogen feeding plants are to be grown. Because unfinished compost is still actively breaking down, organisms in the material continue to take nitrogen from their surroundings. When mixed with the soil, the organisms will begin to draw the nitrogen from the soil in order to have the energy to continue the decomposition process. The result is a nitrogen defecit in the soil to the detriment of the plants in the area. Signs of nitrogen deficiency are stunted plant growth, yellowing leaves often near the bottom of the plant, light green or yellow foliage and weak stems.
Unfinished compost has also been known to damage or "burn" some plants and plant roots. This is a result of the heat given off by the decomposition process. When using unfinished compost it is a good idea to leave a few inches between the material and the stems of plants.
Unfinished compost has also been shown to inhibit the germniation of seeds. If unfinished compost is to be applied to areas where seeds will be sown it should be done six to eight weeks before seeding begins. Ideally, compost should be applied in the fall for an area that will be seeded the following spring.
For most uses it is acceptable to have some recognizable pieces of leaves or straw remaining in your compost. However, you should not use partly finished compost either as a seed starter mix or in areas where heavy nitrogen feeding plants are to be grown. Because unfinished compost is still actively breaking down, organisms in the material continue to take nitrogen from their surroundings. When mixed with the soil, the organisms will begin to draw the nitrogen from the soil in order to have the energy to continue the decomposition process. The result is a nitrogen defecit in the soil to the detriment of the plants in the area. Signs of nitrogen deficiency are stunted plant growth, yellowing leaves often near the bottom of the plant, light green or yellow foliage and weak stems.
Unfinished compost has also been known to damage or "burn" some plants and plant roots. This is a result of the heat given off by the decomposition process. When using unfinished compost it is a good idea to leave a few inches between the material and the stems of plants.
Unfinished compost has also been shown to inhibit the germniation of seeds. If unfinished compost is to be applied to areas where seeds will be sown it should be done six to eight weeks before seeding begins. Ideally, compost should be applied in the fall for an area that will be seeded the following spring.
Compost is unparalleled as a soil conditioner for:
·
house plants
·
lawns
·
trees & shrubs
·
annuals
·
perrenials
·
bulb plantings
·
flower beds
·
vegetable beds
·
potted plants / container plantings
Indoor Plants
Wait until your compost is completely finished before you use it for indoor plants. Established house plants will benefit from an inch of compost mixed into the top inch or two of soil.
Potted Plants / Container Plantings
Container plantings will benefit enormously from the addition of compost to the potting soil. Ensure that you use only mature compost in your containers to avoid burning any tender stems or roots.
Here is a good recipe for a compost based potting mix suitable for containers:
Container plantings will benefit enormously from the addition of compost to the potting soil. Ensure that you use only mature compost in your containers to avoid burning any tender stems or roots.
Here is a good recipe for a compost based potting mix suitable for containers:
·
1 part compost
·
1 part sharp sand
·
1 part perlite
·
1 part peat or good soil
New planting areas
Give new planting areas a boost by digging in as much compost as you can spare (up to four inches) into the top six to twelve inches of garden soil.
Give new planting areas a boost by digging in as much compost as you can spare (up to four inches) into the top six to twelve inches of garden soil.
Established planting areas
Established plantings will benefit from an inch or two of compost worked into the top few inches of soil. Be sure to leave a gap between the compost and the base of the plant to avoid burning the stems. The nutrients will find their way down to the plant roots.
Top dressing an Established Lawn
Spread up to ½" of finished compost over an established lawn. Compost used as a top dressing for lawns should be fully broken down. Running the compost through a fine compost screen is a good idea to keep out any chunky bits. Large areas should be covered with a fertilizer spreader but smaller areas may be spread by hand or with a shovel. Aerating your lawn prior to spreading compost will be of additional benefit, enabling the compost to filter down under the sod more easily.
For new lawns
Starting a new lawn is often challenging, particularly in areas with new homes where the builders have removed the original topsoil. The addition of compost to the existing soil can greatly improve the chance that a new lawn will take hold and thrive. Up to three inches of compost worked into the top six inches of soil will give the new lawn an excellent start. Either sod or grass seed can be placed on top of the amended soil.
Around trees and Shrubs
Spread a once to two inch layer over the soil surface starting from six inches from the trunk out to the edge of the dripline of the tree or shrub.
Making a compost pile is like making a giant layer cake! Well, not exactly but you will soon see what we mean.
But first, a few words about the amount of brown (carbon) material, versus green (nitrogen) material to put into your compost bin. Adding too much brown material will result in a pile that takes a long time to break down wheras too much green material will result in a slimy, smelly pile that doesn't heat up effectively. In order for our pile to break down quickly and efficiently we need to provide just the right balance of brown and green materials.
The microorganisms in our compost bins need both carbon and nitrogen to thrive; carbon for energy and nitrogen for protein synthesis. For every one unit of nitrogen used by the bacteria they also consume about 30 units of carbon. And so in order to keep the bacteria working efficiently we need to create an environment for them that is approximately 30 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen.
Unfortunately, most composting materials don't have a carbon to nitrogen (C:N) ratio of 30:1. However, if we know the approximate C:N ratio of the materials we use in our compost, we can combine them so that the total mixture will be as near as possible to 30:1. This may sound a bit complicated but it really isn't.
For an example:
We want to have a ratio of 30:1 in our compost bin but we only have access to the following ingredients:
· dry autumn leaves (C:N of about 50:1)
· kitchen scraps (vegetable & fruit peelings, coffee grounds etc: about 12:1)
· grass clippings (about 20-30:1)
· sawdust (fresh: 500:1, rotted 200:1)
Using different combinations of materials we will try to get close to the magic 30:1 ratio. If we use 1 part dry leaves to 1 part kitchen scraps we would have the following:
leaves 50/1 + kitchen scraps 12/1 = 62/2 = 31/1 or 31:1
If we use 1 part leaves, 1 part kitchen scraps and 1 part grass clippings we would have:
50/1 + 12/1 + 20/1 =82/3 = 27:1. Not too bad. In this example we can add some extra leaves or a handful or two of sawdust to bump up the ratio nearer to 30:1
Getting the mix of ingredients right is obviously not an exact science but a matter of trial and error. It's something that gets easier after a few tries.
Making the Compost Pile
Start with a 4 inch layer of brush, twigs, hay or straw at the bottom of the compost bin. If you don't have these materials, dry leaves will do. This first layer should be as coarse as possible to allow air to be drawn up into the pile from the bottom of the bin.
Then add a 4 inch layer of brown material, then a thin covering of finished compost or good garden soil. That's one layer. The addition of compost or soil is to provide the necessary bacteria to get the compost to start breaking down. If we don't add this layer the compost will still work, the addition just helps to speed things along.
Then add a 4 inch layer of green material topped with a thin layer of an activator. Activators are a source of both nitrogen and protein, ingredients that assist the organisms to break down the material. There are a number of good activators. Alfalfa meal works amazingly well. You can also use fresh manure, bone meal, blood meal, cottonseed meal, or even high-protein dry dog food.
Moisture
Moisten each layer by misting it lightly with a garden hose. The key is to moisten the pile without making it too wet and soggy. Many people recommend adding moisture until the material is as moist as a wrung out sponge. This is far too wet. If you can squeeze water out of it, it's far too wet. Adding some dry brown materials such as chopped leaves or hay will help if this happens.
If you live in a very arid climate, make an indentation in the top of the pile to collect rainwater and help keep the pile moist. Those living in rainy areas can cover the top of the pile with a tarpaulin or cover to keep it from becoming waterlogged.
Measuring Moisture in Your Compost Pile
Acheiving the correct moisture content is an important factor in keeping a compost pile working efficiently.
A moisture content of between 50-60% is desirable in an active compost pile but how many of us know how to measure moisture? Sure, there are highly technical and complicated ways to calculate moisture content but we are not interested in anything so technical and complicated.
Here is a simple, time-tested way to judge the moisture content in your compost. First, take a handful of compost from the center of your pile and squeeze it in your hand:
· If you can squeeze water out of it, the compost is too wet
· If the compost does not release water but crumbles apart when released, it's too dry
· If the compost does not release water but stays compacted, it's just right
For those who feel the need for a slightly more technical method:
· Weigh a sample of your compost
· Dry the compost throroughly (you can use a conventional oven on low heat for a few hours)
· Weigh the dried compost
· Subtract the dry weight from the wet weight
· Divide by the wet weight and multiply by 100. Voila! A more accurate reading of moisture content
Turning the Compost Pile
If the pile has been made correctly the internal temperature should reach about 140° F within 7-10 days. Ideally, the pile should heat up to 160° F so that any weed seeds and pathogens will be destroyed. A compost thermometer is a helpful tool to use at this stage. Since the bacteria need air to survive they will start to die off after a week or so as they start to use up the available air in the pile. This drop in the amount of bacteria will result in the compost pile cooling off a bit from it's peak temperature. When this happens it's time to turn the pile to get more air into it.
When turning your compost pile, move the drier material from the outer edges into the center of the pile and break up any clumps of leaves or grass clippings to ensure that you get as much air into the pile as you can. Moisten any of the materials as you go, if they seem too dry.
From this point on you should turn the pile every 14 days or so, or when you see the temperature fall from the next peak in termperature of about 110° - 120° F. In general, the more you turn the pile the faster you will have finished compost. If you're using a plastic compost bin, an aerator tool will make the job of turning much easier. A garden fork is often the best tool for turning compost in an open style bin.
What should I do if I don't have enough materials to fill the compost bin all at once?
When you can get your hands on some brown materials such as autumn leaves, save them in bags or a separate bin nearby your compost bin. When you have added enough green material to your compost bin to make a four inch layer, cover it with a 4 inch layer of the saved brown material. Then you can start building another green layer.
Green Composting Materials
Compared to brown materials, green compost materials are much higher in nitrogen. Nitrogen is an important element in amino acids and proteins, and is a vital protein source for the compost microbes, helping to speed up the process of decomposition.
Green materials that are very high in nitrogen should be used sparingly, especially fresh grass clippings.
Vegetable Peelings (12:1)
This category consists of any pieces of fruits and vegetables. Most of us have an endless supply of this type of material: potato peelings, apple cores, banana peels, any bits and pieces of uncooked vegetables that would otherwise have gone into the garbage bin! It is best to avoid using cooked vegetables in your compost because oils used in cooking will slow down decomposition and may attract rodents and other animals. One solution for those who wish to compost cooked vegetables is to use a closed plastic bin with wire mesh on the bottom.
Grass Clippings (20-30:1)
Grass clippings are very high in nitrogen. While that may seem like a good thing, and it is, there are also a few things to consider. First, it is often best to leave grass clippings on the lawn where they will decompose naturally and help to feed the soil.
If you do want to add grass clippings to your compost use them sparingly at first, adding a very thin layer on top of a layer of brown materials, or by mixing them thoroughly with other green materials. If they are applied too thickly they tend to form slimy clumps or mats that do not permit air circulation. The mats do not break down very well and and release an unpleasant smelling (but harmless) ammonia gas.
Fresh Manure (Various)
Poultry (7:1), Sheep (16:1), Horse (22:1), Cow (18:1)
Manure is a valuable ingredient in any compost pile. It contains a high level of nitrogen which will help to get the pile "cooking" quickly. It is acceptable to use manure from horses, cows, chickens, rabbits, sheep, goats and bats (guano) in your compost.
Important: Do not use manure from dogs, cats, pigs or humans in your compost pile or in your garden as they can contain harmful parasites and can cause diseases in humans. It is also advisable never to use any fresh manure in your garden unless it has been composted first.
"...would your coffee shop be willing to exchange used coffee grounds for some customer loyalty?"
If you don't have access to manure, don't worry. There are lots of alternative ingredients that are high in nitrogen that will give your compost pile a boost. Ingredients such as grass clippings, seaweed, and vegetable scraps will do the trick!
Coffee Grounds (20:1)
Coffee grounds are high in nitrogen and really help to heat up your compost. You can compost any kind of coffee grounds and if you use a paper filter just toss it in as well.
Many coffee shops collect their used coffee grounds and provide them free of charge to their customers. Check with your local coffee shop to find out if there is a program in your area. If there isn't, why not get together with other local gardeners and petition the coffee shop that you patronise to start a program. Would your local coffee shop be willing to exchange their used coffee grounds for customer loyalty? You bet!
Coffee grounds can also be used directly in the garden as a mulch for acid loving plants such as Azelieas and Rhododendrons.
"If you live in an area where seaweed is available, consider yourself blessed..."
Seaweed (19:1)
If you live in an area where seaweed is available consider yourself blessed. You have an almost endless supply of nutrient-rich composting material. The addition of seaweed helps to get a compost pile to heat up due to it's high nitrogen content. Most people rinse the seaweed before adding to the pile to remove excess salt.
Plants and Plant Cuttings (20-40:1)
Most plants and plant cuttings can be composted including annual weeds without mature seeds, any remains of spent or harvested plants and flower tops collected from deadheading.
Brown Composting Materials
Composting relies on the right ingredients to be successful. Brown materials such as leaves, straw, hay and sawdust are high in carbon and are a source of energy for the compost microbes.
Leaves (50-80:1)
Leaves are generally an excellent ingredient for your compost. Those living in areas with a large bounty of autumn leaves should make the most of it and find some neighbours willing to pass on their leaves. Many neighbours will do the raking for you if you agree to cart away the piles!
Living green leaves are considered "green materials", wheras the dead, dry leaves that fall from the trees in autumn are seen as "brown materials".
Autumn leaves are a great source of carbon and contain a surprising amount of nutrients that can be returned to the soil through compost. Although whole leaves are acceptable, it is better to shred the leaves before adding to the compost pile. Unshredded leaves tend to mat together excluding air from the pile. Leaves can be shredded in a number of ways:
· using a commercial shredder or chipper
· by pushing a lawn mower back and forth over a pile of leaves a few times. The use of a mulching mower blade will help.
· shred leaves in a large garbage can with a lawn trimmer
· Remember to wear eye protection regardless of the method you choose.
There are a few types of leaves that need special attention when composting:
walnut leaves contain a substance that inhibits the growth of many plants. As a result, walnut leaves should either be very thoroughly composted or omitted altogether
oak leaves take a very long time to break down because of their acidity and high levels of tannin. They will break down into a wonderful amendment for acid loving plants but it will take much longer than with other leaves. It is often a good idea to keep them separate to allow the main compost pile to finish sooner. A separate pile can then be made of oak leaves that can be used for plants that prefer an acid soil.
Waxy leaves also take longer to break down such as those of the holly, laurel, rose, pine and rhododendron. They are often best composted separately
Legume Hay (15:1) and Non-Legume Hay (30:1)
All types of spoiled hay make an excellent addition to the compost pile.
Straw: (80:1)
Straw provides less nitrogen than hay but contributes more than double the carbon. Straw decomposes quite slowly so it's an especially good addition in areas with heavy clay soil. The remaining straw particles in the finished compost help to open up the soil structure.
Paper & Cardboard (150-200:1)
Paper such as newspaper, bills, paper towels, tissues can be composted but it should be shredded first. Avoid adding glossy and highly coloured papers. Stiff cardboard should be broken into small pieces or made into a slurry before it's added to the pile.
Eggshells
Eggshells contain calcium and are a useful addition to the comost pile. The shells do take a long time to break down so it's a good idea to crush them before adding. Do not include whole eggs in your compost, just the shells.
Tea Bags
Both black tea and herbal teas can be composted, whether loose leaves or in bags.
Sawdust* (400:1)
Sawdust and wood chips contain very low amounts of nitrogen and are very slow to break down in the compost pile. Use sawdust in very thin layers or mix thoroughly with a green material such as kitchen scraps or grass clippings. Large wood chips will take a very long time to break down and are often put to better use as a mulch.
*Be careful not to compost any sawdust or wood that has been "pressure treated" or otherwise treated with a chemical preservative. Pressure treated wood (often recognizible by a greenish tint) has been shown to leach arsenic into the soil when used for making playground equipment, compost bins and raised beds. For more information see the section on "what not to add to a compost pile".
Wood Ashes (25:1)
Wood Ashes are an excellent source of calcium and potassium but are also very alkaline. Use sparingly to avoid high pH levels that limit microbial activity. Avoid composting charcoal briquettes as they take too long to break down. Also, avoid composting the ashes created from commercially made "firelogs" which often contain wax and other petroleum derivatives.
Established plantings will benefit from an inch or two of compost worked into the top few inches of soil. Be sure to leave a gap between the compost and the base of the plant to avoid burning the stems. The nutrients will find their way down to the plant roots.
Top dressing an Established Lawn
Spread up to ½" of finished compost over an established lawn. Compost used as a top dressing for lawns should be fully broken down. Running the compost through a fine compost screen is a good idea to keep out any chunky bits. Large areas should be covered with a fertilizer spreader but smaller areas may be spread by hand or with a shovel. Aerating your lawn prior to spreading compost will be of additional benefit, enabling the compost to filter down under the sod more easily.
For new lawns
Starting a new lawn is often challenging, particularly in areas with new homes where the builders have removed the original topsoil. The addition of compost to the existing soil can greatly improve the chance that a new lawn will take hold and thrive. Up to three inches of compost worked into the top six inches of soil will give the new lawn an excellent start. Either sod or grass seed can be placed on top of the amended soil.
Around trees and Shrubs
Spread a once to two inch layer over the soil surface starting from six inches from the trunk out to the edge of the dripline of the tree or shrub.
Making a compost pile is like making a giant layer cake! Well, not exactly but you will soon see what we mean.
But first, a few words about the amount of brown (carbon) material, versus green (nitrogen) material to put into your compost bin. Adding too much brown material will result in a pile that takes a long time to break down wheras too much green material will result in a slimy, smelly pile that doesn't heat up effectively. In order for our pile to break down quickly and efficiently we need to provide just the right balance of brown and green materials.
The microorganisms in our compost bins need both carbon and nitrogen to thrive; carbon for energy and nitrogen for protein synthesis. For every one unit of nitrogen used by the bacteria they also consume about 30 units of carbon. And so in order to keep the bacteria working efficiently we need to create an environment for them that is approximately 30 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen.
Unfortunately, most composting materials don't have a carbon to nitrogen (C:N) ratio of 30:1. However, if we know the approximate C:N ratio of the materials we use in our compost, we can combine them so that the total mixture will be as near as possible to 30:1. This may sound a bit complicated but it really isn't.
For an example:
We want to have a ratio of 30:1 in our compost bin but we only have access to the following ingredients:
· dry autumn leaves (C:N of about 50:1)
· kitchen scraps (vegetable & fruit peelings, coffee grounds etc: about 12:1)
· grass clippings (about 20-30:1)
· sawdust (fresh: 500:1, rotted 200:1)
Using different combinations of materials we will try to get close to the magic 30:1 ratio. If we use 1 part dry leaves to 1 part kitchen scraps we would have the following:
leaves 50/1 + kitchen scraps 12/1 = 62/2 = 31/1 or 31:1
If we use 1 part leaves, 1 part kitchen scraps and 1 part grass clippings we would have:
50/1 + 12/1 + 20/1 =82/3 = 27:1. Not too bad. In this example we can add some extra leaves or a handful or two of sawdust to bump up the ratio nearer to 30:1
Getting the mix of ingredients right is obviously not an exact science but a matter of trial and error. It's something that gets easier after a few tries.
Making the Compost Pile
Start with a 4 inch layer of brush, twigs, hay or straw at the bottom of the compost bin. If you don't have these materials, dry leaves will do. This first layer should be as coarse as possible to allow air to be drawn up into the pile from the bottom of the bin.
Then add a 4 inch layer of brown material, then a thin covering of finished compost or good garden soil. That's one layer. The addition of compost or soil is to provide the necessary bacteria to get the compost to start breaking down. If we don't add this layer the compost will still work, the addition just helps to speed things along.
Then add a 4 inch layer of green material topped with a thin layer of an activator. Activators are a source of both nitrogen and protein, ingredients that assist the organisms to break down the material. There are a number of good activators. Alfalfa meal works amazingly well. You can also use fresh manure, bone meal, blood meal, cottonseed meal, or even high-protein dry dog food.
Moisture
Moisten each layer by misting it lightly with a garden hose. The key is to moisten the pile without making it too wet and soggy. Many people recommend adding moisture until the material is as moist as a wrung out sponge. This is far too wet. If you can squeeze water out of it, it's far too wet. Adding some dry brown materials such as chopped leaves or hay will help if this happens.
If you live in a very arid climate, make an indentation in the top of the pile to collect rainwater and help keep the pile moist. Those living in rainy areas can cover the top of the pile with a tarpaulin or cover to keep it from becoming waterlogged.
Measuring Moisture in Your Compost Pile
Acheiving the correct moisture content is an important factor in keeping a compost pile working efficiently.
A moisture content of between 50-60% is desirable in an active compost pile but how many of us know how to measure moisture? Sure, there are highly technical and complicated ways to calculate moisture content but we are not interested in anything so technical and complicated.
Here is a simple, time-tested way to judge the moisture content in your compost. First, take a handful of compost from the center of your pile and squeeze it in your hand:
· If you can squeeze water out of it, the compost is too wet
· If the compost does not release water but crumbles apart when released, it's too dry
· If the compost does not release water but stays compacted, it's just right
For those who feel the need for a slightly more technical method:
· Weigh a sample of your compost
· Dry the compost throroughly (you can use a conventional oven on low heat for a few hours)
· Weigh the dried compost
· Subtract the dry weight from the wet weight
· Divide by the wet weight and multiply by 100. Voila! A more accurate reading of moisture content
Turning the Compost Pile
If the pile has been made correctly the internal temperature should reach about 140° F within 7-10 days. Ideally, the pile should heat up to 160° F so that any weed seeds and pathogens will be destroyed. A compost thermometer is a helpful tool to use at this stage. Since the bacteria need air to survive they will start to die off after a week or so as they start to use up the available air in the pile. This drop in the amount of bacteria will result in the compost pile cooling off a bit from it's peak temperature. When this happens it's time to turn the pile to get more air into it.
When turning your compost pile, move the drier material from the outer edges into the center of the pile and break up any clumps of leaves or grass clippings to ensure that you get as much air into the pile as you can. Moisten any of the materials as you go, if they seem too dry.
From this point on you should turn the pile every 14 days or so, or when you see the temperature fall from the next peak in termperature of about 110° - 120° F. In general, the more you turn the pile the faster you will have finished compost. If you're using a plastic compost bin, an aerator tool will make the job of turning much easier. A garden fork is often the best tool for turning compost in an open style bin.
What should I do if I don't have enough materials to fill the compost bin all at once?
When you can get your hands on some brown materials such as autumn leaves, save them in bags or a separate bin nearby your compost bin. When you have added enough green material to your compost bin to make a four inch layer, cover it with a 4 inch layer of the saved brown material. Then you can start building another green layer.
Green Composting Materials
Compared to brown materials, green compost materials are much higher in nitrogen. Nitrogen is an important element in amino acids and proteins, and is a vital protein source for the compost microbes, helping to speed up the process of decomposition.
Green materials that are very high in nitrogen should be used sparingly, especially fresh grass clippings.
Vegetable Peelings (12:1)
This category consists of any pieces of fruits and vegetables. Most of us have an endless supply of this type of material: potato peelings, apple cores, banana peels, any bits and pieces of uncooked vegetables that would otherwise have gone into the garbage bin! It is best to avoid using cooked vegetables in your compost because oils used in cooking will slow down decomposition and may attract rodents and other animals. One solution for those who wish to compost cooked vegetables is to use a closed plastic bin with wire mesh on the bottom.
Grass Clippings (20-30:1)
Grass clippings are very high in nitrogen. While that may seem like a good thing, and it is, there are also a few things to consider. First, it is often best to leave grass clippings on the lawn where they will decompose naturally and help to feed the soil.
If you do want to add grass clippings to your compost use them sparingly at first, adding a very thin layer on top of a layer of brown materials, or by mixing them thoroughly with other green materials. If they are applied too thickly they tend to form slimy clumps or mats that do not permit air circulation. The mats do not break down very well and and release an unpleasant smelling (but harmless) ammonia gas.
Fresh Manure (Various)
Poultry (7:1), Sheep (16:1), Horse (22:1), Cow (18:1)
Manure is a valuable ingredient in any compost pile. It contains a high level of nitrogen which will help to get the pile "cooking" quickly. It is acceptable to use manure from horses, cows, chickens, rabbits, sheep, goats and bats (guano) in your compost.
Important: Do not use manure from dogs, cats, pigs or humans in your compost pile or in your garden as they can contain harmful parasites and can cause diseases in humans. It is also advisable never to use any fresh manure in your garden unless it has been composted first.
"...would your coffee shop be willing to exchange used coffee grounds for some customer loyalty?"
If you don't have access to manure, don't worry. There are lots of alternative ingredients that are high in nitrogen that will give your compost pile a boost. Ingredients such as grass clippings, seaweed, and vegetable scraps will do the trick!
Coffee Grounds (20:1)
Coffee grounds are high in nitrogen and really help to heat up your compost. You can compost any kind of coffee grounds and if you use a paper filter just toss it in as well.
Many coffee shops collect their used coffee grounds and provide them free of charge to their customers. Check with your local coffee shop to find out if there is a program in your area. If there isn't, why not get together with other local gardeners and petition the coffee shop that you patronise to start a program. Would your local coffee shop be willing to exchange their used coffee grounds for customer loyalty? You bet!
Coffee grounds can also be used directly in the garden as a mulch for acid loving plants such as Azelieas and Rhododendrons.
"If you live in an area where seaweed is available, consider yourself blessed..."
Seaweed (19:1)
If you live in an area where seaweed is available consider yourself blessed. You have an almost endless supply of nutrient-rich composting material. The addition of seaweed helps to get a compost pile to heat up due to it's high nitrogen content. Most people rinse the seaweed before adding to the pile to remove excess salt.
Plants and Plant Cuttings (20-40:1)
Most plants and plant cuttings can be composted including annual weeds without mature seeds, any remains of spent or harvested plants and flower tops collected from deadheading.
Brown Composting Materials
Composting relies on the right ingredients to be successful. Brown materials such as leaves, straw, hay and sawdust are high in carbon and are a source of energy for the compost microbes.
Leaves (50-80:1)
Leaves are generally an excellent ingredient for your compost. Those living in areas with a large bounty of autumn leaves should make the most of it and find some neighbours willing to pass on their leaves. Many neighbours will do the raking for you if you agree to cart away the piles!
Living green leaves are considered "green materials", wheras the dead, dry leaves that fall from the trees in autumn are seen as "brown materials".
Autumn leaves are a great source of carbon and contain a surprising amount of nutrients that can be returned to the soil through compost. Although whole leaves are acceptable, it is better to shred the leaves before adding to the compost pile. Unshredded leaves tend to mat together excluding air from the pile. Leaves can be shredded in a number of ways:
· using a commercial shredder or chipper
· by pushing a lawn mower back and forth over a pile of leaves a few times. The use of a mulching mower blade will help.
· shred leaves in a large garbage can with a lawn trimmer
· Remember to wear eye protection regardless of the method you choose.
There are a few types of leaves that need special attention when composting:
walnut leaves contain a substance that inhibits the growth of many plants. As a result, walnut leaves should either be very thoroughly composted or omitted altogether
oak leaves take a very long time to break down because of their acidity and high levels of tannin. They will break down into a wonderful amendment for acid loving plants but it will take much longer than with other leaves. It is often a good idea to keep them separate to allow the main compost pile to finish sooner. A separate pile can then be made of oak leaves that can be used for plants that prefer an acid soil.
Waxy leaves also take longer to break down such as those of the holly, laurel, rose, pine and rhododendron. They are often best composted separately
Legume Hay (15:1) and Non-Legume Hay (30:1)
All types of spoiled hay make an excellent addition to the compost pile.
Straw: (80:1)
Straw provides less nitrogen than hay but contributes more than double the carbon. Straw decomposes quite slowly so it's an especially good addition in areas with heavy clay soil. The remaining straw particles in the finished compost help to open up the soil structure.
Paper & Cardboard (150-200:1)
Paper such as newspaper, bills, paper towels, tissues can be composted but it should be shredded first. Avoid adding glossy and highly coloured papers. Stiff cardboard should be broken into small pieces or made into a slurry before it's added to the pile.
Eggshells
Eggshells contain calcium and are a useful addition to the comost pile. The shells do take a long time to break down so it's a good idea to crush them before adding. Do not include whole eggs in your compost, just the shells.
Tea Bags
Both black tea and herbal teas can be composted, whether loose leaves or in bags.
Sawdust* (400:1)
Sawdust and wood chips contain very low amounts of nitrogen and are very slow to break down in the compost pile. Use sawdust in very thin layers or mix thoroughly with a green material such as kitchen scraps or grass clippings. Large wood chips will take a very long time to break down and are often put to better use as a mulch.
*Be careful not to compost any sawdust or wood that has been "pressure treated" or otherwise treated with a chemical preservative. Pressure treated wood (often recognizible by a greenish tint) has been shown to leach arsenic into the soil when used for making playground equipment, compost bins and raised beds. For more information see the section on "what not to add to a compost pile".
Wood Ashes (25:1)
Wood Ashes are an excellent source of calcium and potassium but are also very alkaline. Use sparingly to avoid high pH levels that limit microbial activity. Avoid composting charcoal briquettes as they take too long to break down. Also, avoid composting the ashes created from commercially made "firelogs" which often contain wax and other petroleum derivatives.
Vermi composting is an eco-friendly
technology. Application of vermin-culture technology in the recycling of
Sericultural waste and other wastes has a tremendous potential. It is
estimated that, by recycling (3) times in a year the farmer may get
approximately 15 tones of vermin compost manure.
Vermi
composing is a technology of using earthworms as versatile natural bio-reactor
for rapid conversion of any organic wastes under value added manure. The
earthworms feed on the wastes of organics origin, which is rich in NPK, micro
nutrients, enzymes and vitamins suitable for crop growth besides number of
useful micro organisms.
Cost details for construction of Four tanks with Shed
S.
No.
|
Particulars
|
Quantity
|
Amount (Rs.)
|
1
|
Bricks
|
1000 No
|
3000.00
|
2
|
Cement
|
8 Bags
|
1,200.00
|
3
|
Sand
|
2 cart loads
|
150.00
|
4
|
Jelly
|
1 cart load
|
500.00
|
5
|
Stone poles or pillers
|
3 No ( 10’ height)
6 No (7’ height)
|
2,250.00
|
6
|
Nilgiri or Casurina poles ( for roofing )
|
16 No
|
1,200.00
|
7
|
Local wood reapers( to fix tiles) if tiles are used
|
24 No
|
800.00
|
8
|
Tiles
|
800 No
|
4,000.00
|
9
|
Labour charges ( Carpentry & mason)
|
2,000.00
|
|
10
|
Miscellaneous
|
700.00
|
|
11
|
Cost of earthworms
|
5200.00
|
For construction of 4 cement tanks with measurement of 3.00
mts x 1.5 mt with a depth of 1.00 mt and the shed size is 8mt x 4
mt with a height of 10 feet tiled or Asbestos sheets.
www.natureherbs.org
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